Not even the outerwear abandons the seasonal dress code. With the true and proper return to tradition which can be observed on every catwalk, rediscovers an obsessive elegance that was already being lost, giving value to the simplicity and exclusivity of the product. Burberry Prorsum is travelling in this direction and proudly opens its own show with the obligatory trench coat, undisputed symbol of the brand, but this time in soft leather, more sober and with fewer frills, reinforced with strategic stitching and with a zip. It is offered short, above the knee and to brush the waist is the all essential belt that can sometimes be worn very thin and doubled up and dyed in fluorescent colours. For a more sophisticated elegance, it then becomes more sober and ¿educated¿, it becomes silver lamé and covered with studs. The American Derek Lam made his debut on the New York catwalk with a denim coat in a military style to coordinate with the mini dress; other forms of the trench follow, always adhering to strict guidelines. Obviously the catwalk is very denim with the jeanswear brand G-star: waistcoats and hooded jackets, in white, the dominant colour for the coming warm months; there is also a trench coat with big pockets and a hood, as well as a flared, multi-zipped raincoat. The horizon is wide at Milan fashion week: the youth collection of Ennio Capasa for C'N'C Costume National is growing, as always, the essential chic urban youth dress in structured fabrics, woven but fluid; heavy viscose with a bark effect or very light. The jacket is a masterpiece of missing pieces: sleeveless and always collarless, without buttons, unlined, no consistency, lightweight, even in leather, only hidden zips and belts to tighten. The silhouette of John Richmond is inspired by the '70s. The leather jackets have narrow shoulders, wide lapels and precious profiles. Just for a moment ,total black is betrayed to allow for the appreciation of the unexpected jade green of a studded waistcoat. Versace have a seemingly impossible mission: transmit sensuality through rigid geometric forms; Donatella succeeds by playing with the "cut and stitching" with full-bodied fabrics, geometry destroyed and recomposed, leaving cracks to peep through, particularly at the shoulders, is in constant evidence. At the Paris event, the mini jackets covered in chains by Louis Vuitton capture attention, the references to over-sized Japanese kimonos, geometric in shape, when they are not in the exaggerated puffed up shapes of the '20s. Caban coats and small trench coats for the naughty sailor from John Galliano for Dior. images: more than 800 pages: 144 format: cm. 24,5 x 33
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